Pest Management

Pests can be defined as noxious, harmful, or troublesome organisms.  They can include weeds, insects, fungi, rodents, viruses or any other plant or animal  that has an undesirable effect. We all have them in our yards - some visible and some not.  If left unchecked, pests can have a negative affect on the appearance of your yard; and worse, the environment and surrounding areas.   The best approach to managing pests in our yards is to take a preventative approach. Avoiding pest problems is less expensive and gives better and longer term results than relying on treatments.

Preventing pest problems can be  done in a number of ways:

1. Select plants and flowers that are resistant to disease and insects;

2. Manage growing conditions that will produce and support hardy plants that compete with weeds and insects.  This could include optimizing water applications, enriching soil, and ensuring adequate food (nutrients) are provided to your lawn, trees, and plants;

3. Be sure to clean up spills, keep your yard tidy, and eliminate any food sources or habitat that pests may enjoy; and,

4.  Inspect your yard regularly for evidence that pests may have move in.

These simple chores take only a few minutes a week and will go a long way to ensuring your yard remains pest-free and enjoyable throughout the season!

Three Lawn Watering Mistakes to Avoid

As we approach the warmer season it is important to set out an efficient and systematic watering plan- not only to have a great looking lawn, but to conserve the precious water we are using in the Foothills region. Here are three common mistakes that can lead to waste and inefficient watering of your lawn:

1.Incorrect Amount of water

As a general rule, your lawn needs about an inch of water per week, from both rain and the hose.  It’s easy to see when grass is under- watered, since it usually turns brown and looks dry and dead. Even if it still looks healthy, grass that does not get enough water is not going to develop a strong and healthy root system, leaving it susceptible to problems in the future. Giving the grass too much water can wash away fertilizer and nutrients, eventually killing the grass. And, too much moisture supports fungal growth, which will damage or kill your lawn. 

2.Watering At The Wrong Time

The ideal time to water your lawn is around dawn, or between 4 am and 8 am. At this time, moisture will not evaporate as quickly, and there is usually less wind to blow the water around. Yet, as the day warms up, sufficient drying will occur to prevent saturation and other harms that come from too much water.

3.Incorrect Watering Equipment

Having an irrigation/ sprinkler system installed is the best way to control the amount and frequency of watering. However, if that is not possible or in the budget, a pulsating sprinkler is the next best thing. Pulsating sprinklers spray the water horizontally over a wide area and ensures even watering.  There is one exception to this- if you have a new lawn, an oscillating sprinkler that sprays the water vertically is a better option. It has less pressure than a pulsating sprinkler and is less likely to wash away seeds or crush new sprout lings. In either case, you will need pay close attention to the timing and move the sprinklers around the yard to evenly water every section.

Paying attention to the amount and timing our the watering you do will be best for your lawn, while conserving the precious resource for all of us.

Aeration

Your lawn needs to breathe, and aeration can help. Lawn aeration involves the removal of small soil plugs or cores out of the lawn. Most aeration is done mechanically with an aeration machine.

As lawns age or sustain heavy use, soil compaction can result. Roots require oxygen to grow and absorb nutrients and water and compaction reduces total pore space and the amount of air within the soil. Core aeration can benefit your lawn by:

•  Increasing the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch

•  Increasing water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil

•  Improving rooting

•  Helping prevent fertilizer and pesticide run-off from overly compacted areas

1. Do I need to aerate?

If in doubt about aeration, take a core sample of your lawn and subsurface at least 6 inches deep. If grass roots extend only into the first 1-2 inches, your soil may be compacted and could benefit from core aeration. Expect a seasonal effect with cool-season grass roots being shortest in late summer and at their greatest depth in late spring.

Other reasons to aerate include:

•  Your lawn is heavily used, and the ground is hard and compact

•  The thatch layer is in excess of a half inch

•  You have a heavy clay soil

However, not all lawns need to be aerated. Keep in mind that winter freezing and thawing cycles and earthworm activity can help loosen slightly compacted soils. Furthermore, newly seeded or sodded lawns should not be aerated in the first year. Lawns with more than half an inch of thatch may require dethatching.

2. How do I aerate my lawn?

Aerators can be rented from many garden or rental centres, and some landscape companies will perform the service for you. Be sure that the machine has hollow tines or spoons to bring the soil core to the surface. In Alberta, the best time to aerate is in May to June and again in mid September.

When aerating,

•  The soil should be moist but not wet.

•  Lawns should be thoroughly watered two days prior to aerating, so tines can penetrate deeper into the soil and soil cores easily fall out of the tines.

•  If aerating after prolonged rainfall it is important to wait until the soil has dried somewhat so soil cores do not stick in the hollow tines.

•  Aerate the lawn in at least two different directions to ensure good coverage. Be careful on slopes, especially steep ones, as well as near buildings and landscape beds.

3. Additional information on aeration:

Before aerating, please keep the following in mind:

•  Aeration helps to control thatch.

•  It is extremely difficult to core aerate heavy clay soils.

•  Aeration is not recommended for soils that have stones, rocks or tree roots just below the soil surface.

•  Be sure to mark sprinkler heads, shallow lines from sprinkler, underground utilities, cable, and septic lines before aerating so they will not be damaged

•  Soil cores are best left on the lawn surface; they typically work back into the grass in 2-4 weeks. The soil cores will naturally decompose, returning nutrients back into the soil, improving soil structure and drainage. The cores also act as a topdressing. As they break down, they fill in the aeration holes and help level the surface of the lawn, improving the overall appearance of the lawn and promote a more uniform growth pattern.

•  Lawns may be fertilized and seeded immediately following aeration with or without further soil topdressing.

•  Lawns can be aerated once a year, especially under heavy use conditions.